If there is a God. Today he is in the Arctic.

If I had to choose a favorite day so far on this expedition, it will be today.
Not just because we are now on the other side of the countdown to 90 degrees but because of the gifts the arctic gave us throughout the day.
Thanks to the excellent weather forecast from Helga van Leur and drift forecast from Mark Drinkwater, we were well prepared this morning for the challenges ahead.

Forecast was for strong winds and low visibility but just one hour out of camp, the sky opened up, sun poked through with perfect ‘Jesus’ beams and lit up the blue ice blocks in front of my skis.
I am not particularly religious but if there was a religious moment this must be it.
The wind quit completely and the sun actually manage to give a bit of its warmth.
Ice crystals were glistening in the sky, the whole arctic suddenly became winter still.
I stopped and took off my skis, unleashed my sled and breathe in this special moment.

Most of the time we see the tips of our skis because our heads are tugged inside our hoods of our jackets, too afraid to have any skin exposed and face frostbite but when these precious moments arise, you need to embrace them.
I like to think that the Arctic is given us some gentleness after its relentless war with cold, and wind and it is showing us that she can be gracious and kind.
For all of us out here it has been very challenging due to the extreme cold temperatures but we persevere and the rewards of today were incredibly welcome.

A few hours later we skied over the biggest frozen lead so far.
The size of a lake with snow drift blowing over its surface, so different that we normally see here on the North Pole.
The sky closed in again around 16:00 hours and left us with a sliver of light in the northern horizon.

A dramatic day - a seascape full of contrasts - a day you re thankful for being here at all costs.

Replay: Facebook Live met Bernice Notenboom

Replay van de Facebook Live vanaf de Noordpool. 12 April 2017.

Volg Bernice op Facebook

Halfway the trip… halfway our luck?

It warmed up in the Arctic today and we noticed!
For the first time I did not have frost inside my jacket or clumps of ice hanging from the fur in my hood.
The inner soles of my Baffin boots were not frozen neither were the zippers of my outside pockets.
All this to a great start this morning.
I was able to ski without a ski mask and didn’t have to breathe through neoprene to prevent getting frostbites on my face.
We left our hand warmers behind and our skis slid smoothly over the surface.

At lunch the cheese tasted like cheese again and nuts tasted salty.
So far all good, but we noticed the wind is coming from the west and south so that is why the air is warmer.
We think it is -26C instead of -36C a big jump in temperatures and the Arctic is already reacting.

Every night we report we haven’t seen any leads, that everything is frozen solid but the threshold of this cold arctic  has almost been reached.
Much warmer then -25C and the ice will start to melt.

I was thinking about  this when the Arctic was 25 degrees too warm in November and how the ice was unable to form due to the extreme warm ocean temperatures coming from the Atlantic.
Small increases in temperature can cause huge reactions.
Like the thermostat at home: 21 degrees is comfortable but 23 degrees is too warm.

Here in the Arctic it is like that too: -30C keeps everything solid and the ice can grow in thickness and extend.
Anything less in the Arctic will respond and start to melt.

Today we noticed the leads are changing color: from light blue to light grey.
The next thing will be a thin layer of mush on top and then eventually water and the lead will open and turn liquid.
Lets hope the freezer box will stay on for a while longer - for the sake of the Arctic.

We reached a new milestone today: 89 degrees and skied our first degree of latitude.
We are now half way our trip.

Location of camp:


The Arctic changed in a very frightened way

A journalist asked me for a few days ago if I can see the difference here at the North Pole between 2007 and this year.
I had a think about it because you are here so briefly in one area at a specific time of the year so any observations I can make and compare would not be realistic.
But today I revise this opinion.

The Arctic has changed since 2007 and in a very frightened way.
The old arctic had hedges of ice protecting the big fields (pans) in between, making the ice stay compact and together, drifting wholesomely to whatever direction the wind or current took it.
Now you see lots of chaos; a battlefield of ice blocks collided, folded over each other and long stretches of flat one year ice where the wind has scoured the surface.

At certain moments you might as well be in Antarctica - the sea ice has new similarities of an icecap.
All these one year ice blocks have been pushed to the surface by the trans polar drift.

This also happens in 2007 of course since this is what currents do - they take ice from one region and transport it to another.
In the Russian Arctic (where we are) it spins around and gets dumped eventually in the Bering Straight into the Pacific Ocean where the warm ocean temperatures melt the ice.

Since this part of the Arctic has much warmer sea temperatures then the Canadian or Greenlandic Arctic - we experience more movement and fluidity.
The ice may only be 1 to 1.5 meter thick here so it can move around much faster, set in motion by just the slightest wind, whereas in Canada the ice can up to 4.5 meters thick and more stable.

So yes, the ice is different today than 10 years ago despite the cold we face we can only imagine what an increase of 20 degrees will do to this part of the arctic in few months.

Melt completely.

Location camp:

It’s like walking in a glass of milk

The weather report of today (thanks Helga van Leur and Mark Drinkwater) finely came through.
Warmer temperatures (-28C), snow and wind from the southwest, luckily in our backs.
Navigating becomes challenging in this kind of weather, you don’t know what north or south is or up and down.
The sky and surface all blend into the same color of grey.

We usually navigate with the sun and take the angle of our shadow so we know that at 9 am the sun is due west and at 16:00 hours due north.
The sun rotates around us so you will need to use your own shadow to find its position.

If there is no sun you will have to find features on the ice to help you steer in the right direction.
Sastrugi - wind dunes - form here from the west to the east since the prevailing wind is from the west.
Going north means crossing them perpendicular, wind in your back.

A compass is absolutely useless here, the needle spins around and needs time to settle but it will never be a stable orientation and you cant trust it.
Leaves us to use a GPS but even that can fool you as you get closer to the North Pole.

So best on a day like today to use your senses, observe the features and check occasionally if the needle of the compass is at least going to the right direction.

Despite the low visibility we made good time - 16 km and we may be heading for one degree in two days time!

Tracks on the ice… We are not alone here

Once in a while the Arctic throws something at you which makes you stop in your tracks and you need a  moment to comprehend what just happens.

Today we had such a moment.
Still being unbearable cold, the first hour out of the tent is the moment of the naked  truth - rested, warm and fed - now you need to face the reality of the day.
Fifteen minutes into our first hour I came across fresh tracks heading straight to our camp.

After taking a closer look, I recognize the tracks of a polar fox, a single set crisscrossing over a wide pan of wind slab.
After a moment of disbelief you wonder what a polar fox is doing out here.
Nothing to eat because everything is frozen for hunting.
Is it just tracking a polar bear and scavenge the scraps of his meal?

Normally you should be wary to see fox tracks but I felt at awe with the presence of another creature roaming around here, we’re no longer alone.

A few hours later while Ann and I were struggling through rubble of ice blocks and pulling our sleds over junks the size of a refrigerator, Martin saw a tern flying over our heads.
First it circled Ann and seconds later it zoomed over my head.
A bird and a fox in the middle of the Arctic Ocean, close to the North Pole, the furthest one can be from any source of food and vegetation.

A tern flies all the way to the Arctic, turns around and flies back to the Antarctic - it travels the greatest distance of any bird in the world.

We were discussing this today.
What is the point?
To go through such effort and then not even enjoying your arrival?
But then again why do you want to spend time here in the absolute freezer box when it is nicer only a few degrees to the south.


Our first important milestone

A milestone today - skied 1/2 degree of latitude.
Victor Serov who I call into every night with our position is really happy with our progress: ” You are doing very well Bernice and you are doing science” is his encouraging response every time I call in.

I imagine he is sitting in a tent in Barneo with a giant map, North Pole in the middle, and plotting all routes towards the pole.
Each team on the ice has to call in coordinates at night so if something happens, they are standby with 2 MI8 helicopters to assist.
Like yesterday somebody had to get evacuated because of frostbite.

To get a compliment from a Russian scientist who has spend a year in Vostok in Antarctica [coldest place on earth] as well as being an accomplished polar explorer, we should be proud of ourselves to have skied 1/4 of the way on day 5.
But it hasn’t come easy.
The half degree has been really hard work temperatures dipped to -41C too cold to film, do science, all we can do is keep moving until we need to eat and drink.

The sleds weigh over 80 kilo’s and new pains and aches show unexpectedly in places you don’t want them, like my back.
On the odd break, I would get the notebook out, jot down the GPS position while Ann pokes into the snow and yells the various snow depths to me.
The rest of the day we are doing cold management: toes we don’t feel anymore and need nurturing or placing your thumb between the fingers to warm them up inside your mit, and worse letting your arm hang so the blood can race back to the extremities.

If you are cold all blood flows to your heart and core to protect it, so to call it back is playing a trick with your mind.
Despite this careful nursing, I still end up with frost nip on all fingers.
I now need to be extra careful with exposure to cold.

Today I kept thinking how the suffering for half degree of skiing is somewhat symbolic for the suffering we need to do to combat climate change and the sacrifices we will need to make to reduce our carbon footprint to stay under our 2 degree agreement.
Just like our expedition the beginning will be the hardest to execute.
Did it take 3 hours to get ready in the morning now we can do it in 2 hours.

Skiing nonstop and pulling a heavy sled, was only manageable for 1.5 hours at the time, now we do it 2 hours without stopping.
I suspect that at day 24 all the laborious work is easy, fluent and natural without ever thinking it could be so difficult.
Could our half degree of skiing be symbolic for the commitment to stay under 2 degrees of global warming?
And once you start the expedition there is no turning back and the only option is to stick with it all the way through to 2 degrees.

Lets hope we can pull this off for the sake of the gorgeous Arctic and eventually for us.

non-sexy, unglamorous, protocol

Every 2 kilometers we stop to measure snow.
Sometimes we would rather ignore this science because stopping and doing 10 measurements, writing down coordinates and snow depths is tedious, and time consuming.
We know that this kind of science is non-sexy, unglamorous but perhaps one of the most important contributions to understanding the arctic.

After our successful fly-over by NASA a few days ago, we are motivated to really give scientists relevant and valuable data, from the 224 km we ski to the pole.
This means you need to follow a protocol- don’t deviate and let the snow sampling be favorable to your location but take it as it comes.
So today was another frigid day, -36C likely -40 with the windchill, not a day to stand around and ensemble a probe pole, take out your notebook (and gloves) and write down the measurements.
However by doing this consistently we are starting to get a good feel for the snowpack.

Since today we are skiing over big frozen leads - that were open water lakes before the cold spell.
Ironically the closer we are getting to the North Pole the bigger the leads.
Good for us they are solid now and we ski right over them but in a few months from now this will all be water.

As you can imagine the amount of snow on top of a lead is marginal - no more then 3 to 4 cm.
But more important question would be when did it snow and how long ago?
Scientists would like us to register windslabs on top of the snow and today we continuously walked on crusty and collapsing layers, the ones that are a curse for our sleds and they break right through.
It means it has been windy here close to the pole.

This in combination with drift and current, the North Pole is dynamic and ever changing.
Underneath the slab we find hoarse crystals — a sign of severe cold.
This is a crystal that doesn’t bond with anything due to its size and formation.
When you ski through them it sounds like you ski through broken glass.

I am starting to really enjoy this micro analyzing of the snow we ski over mile after mile.
Kudos to Ann who volunteered to do the snow stabbing while we warmed ourselves.

A little green sledge is my life support

I don’t want to keep banging on about the hardships up here and I will say that they’re far less than what real Polar explorers endured a hundred years ago and more.

The pressure of the environment, however, remains the same.
This little green sledge is my life support system.
Without all the kit - tent, stove, fuel, sleeping bag, down jacket and food - I wouldn’t survive up here for long.

My friend, the solo cave diver @Andy_Torbet, says of his sport that ‘you’re OK or you’re dead.’
There is a gap between OK and dead up here, but it’s not a big one.
If I were to stand still in the same clothes I was wearing when this photograph was taken the environment would’ve killed me.

Ironically, it’s by keeping cool that you find the most comfort - sweating  is an efficient way to discover hypothermia.
But cold management is not easy, especially where fingers and toes are concerned.

If your fingers get cold, you cannot put up a tent or, even worse, light a stove.
All these factors are controllable though.
And once you trust yourself enough to keep away from the sharp teeth of the cold then you can almost enjoy being here.

Skiing across the surface of the Arctic Ocean gives me the profound feeling that we are on a planet, and that alone is worth the toil.

Martin Hartley
Follow Martin on Instgram

Being cold… Very cold

Rather optimistic this morning, Martin poked his head out of the tent and reported it was not as cold as the day before.
Sure, we know that coming from a warm tent everything is relative even being cold but the idea of skiing and not having to deal with frostbites of our hands or feet would be very welcome at this stage of our expedition.

Since our drop off the temperatures have being around -31C to -34C and according to Martin’s  temperature gage on his camera,  today was an absolute record of -41C.
Sometimes it is better not knowing how cold it really is because the weird psychology of being uncomfortable starts to kick in.
Next are the questions in your head: what are we doing here?
And will I be safe?

The good side of the cold is that all leads are frozen and we ski over everything.
Even 10 degrees warmer and we have to deal with open water.

The Arctic looks like the Arctic when it is cold - constantly reminding you that it is a place only for those who can handle its environment.
Not for us, non-fur bearing kind of species.
We have to deal with face masks, down mittens, and multiple layers because every piece of skin exposed will freeze in less then 5 minutes.
There is a saying that being cold doesn’t exist only bad clothing but today with all the best clothing from Arctic specialist Bergans from Norway, I was still shivering to the bone.
All Day.

The times we were warm is when we hauled our sleds over pressure ridges and with the first sip of a hot drink.
That adds up to perhaps 30 minutes of the 8 hours we were outside.
I make a fist inside my mitten to get the blood back to my thumb but then the cold radiates to my fingers.
You can’t  help it, if you use ski poles and your hands are up, the blood races to the core and leaves you with absolutely numb hands.

Luckily for us there is no breath of wind.
Nothing to add to the windchill.
Our sleds have a lot of friction when the snow is coarse and cold.
I bet we can do more miles each day if you can slide effortlessly over the ice.

At 17:30 today we couldn’t take it any longer and set up our tent.
Our stoves or rather the fuel which has been given us have difficulty and we pray each night they work so we can eat and drink but most important give us some heat.

Perhaps in a week time we are wishing for freezing temperatures but for now we need to think warm thoughts to keep going.